The old adage that sometimes change is good couldn’t have been more adroitly used than when defining Eudon Choi’s Autumn/Winter 2014 womenswear collection; and yet the collection by the Korean-born and London-based fashion designer managed to bring out the best characteristics that has made his creations some of the most eagerly anticipated ones presented during the official calendar of London Fashion Week for the past few seasons.
For the first collection that he showed on the main runway space of London Fashion Week (as opposed to his previous more intimate salons) Choi offered a range of clothes that, under the moniker ‘Hysteria’, celebrated the sensibility of 1960s teenage cool and futuristic minimalism while conjuring the sharp tailoring of the menswear creations that he learnt to craft as a student back in Seoul. Textured surfaces such as thick checked and pin-striped flannels, printed knitwear, furs and embroideries were worked into voluminous double-breasted overcoats, parkas, and wool jumpers, whereas the fluid lines of flared cuffs and collars contrasted with the elegance that permeated gentle waist lines in cocktail dresses, fitted sleeves, and cigarette trousers in a colour palette of sombre greys and browns highlighted by crisp whites and vivid blues.
In more ways than one, Eudon Choi’s Autumn/Winter 2014 womenswear collection summed up the best features that he achieved over the numerous designs conceived for his past four collections shown during previous editions of London Fashion Week. As for change, a debut on the main runway of one of the world’s most significant sartorial showcases that gathers the most ingenious traits developed over just two years could not have pointed towards a more auspicious future for the young designer. And such change is certainly good.