Têca by Helô Rocha Spring/Summer 2014

Of the dozens of fashion shows (of variable impact and quality) that I had the opportunity to attend during the most recent São Paulo Fashion Week, the runway show that unveiled the Spring/Summer 2004 womenswear collection designed by Helô Rocha for label Têca was, most probably, my favourite. Rocha presented a well-edited collection that captivated the audience from beginning to end with a celebration of femininity that was particularly embodied in a range of stunning long dresses made from sheer, flowing fabrics with exquisite prints.

nspired by the rich details found in antique porcelain (namely in Chinese vases of different dynasties or in Portuguese tiles produced from the fifteenth century onwards) as well as Chinese artist Li Xiaofeng’s garments made from broken porcelain, Têca’s latest womenswear range featured intricate floral and Arabian motifs made from astonishing cutwork embroideries (such as Richelieu stitch) worked on, or applied to fabrics such as crepe de chine, georgette, silk and cotton in a palette where black, white and blue were dominant.

As in the runway show for label Cavalera that had taken place a couple of days before, Têca also resorted to a live music performance on the runway. Throughout the presentation, Roberta Sá’s soothing voice contributed to reinforce a reverential and yet sophisticated atmosphere that was very appropriate to the collection.