Sometimes, fashion is just about what people want to wear. Although devoid of ingenious impetus, this pragmatic approach to the garments that clad the body as items of clothing rather than fashion is what keeps the business of dressing ticking along for most people. And this is what Zoë Jordan is not ashamed to focus on while producing her womenswear collections, in a commercial direction that have garnered a nomination for the 2012 BFC/VOGUE Designer Fashion Fund, and made her a finalist for Walpole Best Emerging British Luxury Brand 2012.
Jordan’s fifth collection, named ‘Foundations’, was shown during London Fashion Week’s official calendar of collections for Autumn/Winter 2013 and found inspiration in the designer’s appreciation of, and former training in architecture, from the baroque cathedrals of Italy to modernist and post-modernist buildings by Mies van der Rohe, Renzo Piano, Robert Venturi, James Stirling and Frank Gehry.
Photographic prints of the interior of the Duomo in Rome, skyscrapers against bright city lights, a classical female statue, and references to stark, minimalist, monochromatic interiors shaped the collection’s angular silhouettes. Similarly, the garments’ predominantly monochrome colour palette reflected the architectural inspiration by highlighting textures such as Tuscan sheepskin and soft leather in shades of mercury and gunmetal, metallic woven jacquards, and heavy cashmere knits. Bursts of colour in the form of amber orange, and pink contrasted with black and white through juxtaposed panelling.
Daywear came in the shape of Savile Row inspired sharp tailoring and clean lines, with Prince of Wales checks providing a timeless undertone, whereas eveningwear featured corseted dresses in snake print jacquard and long skirts paired with heavy knits and t-shirts. This season also saw another Zoë Jordan footwear collection with a focus on bright colour blocks.
Ultimately, this was a collection that refused to push the creativity envelope in the direction of fashion critics. However, the range of looks and separates that paraded on the runway appealed to the many buyers present and will undoubtedly prove to be successful to women as end-users.
