Tufi Duek Autumn/Winter 2013

During the latest edition of São Paulo Fashion Week, Brazilian fashion label Tufi Duek showed one of the most accomplished and elegant collection that took to the runways of Parque Villa-Lobos, the verdant venue that hosted the event. Under the creative direction of Eduardo Pombal (a graduate of Milan’s Istituto Marangoni), and inspired by Alfred Hitchcock’s 1963 film The Birds, the collection suggested influences by early Christian Dior and recent designs by Roland Mouret (namely the shapes of the iconic Galaxy dress) that incorporated external pleating techniques and synched shoulder and waist lines.

Pombal resorted to textured fabrics such as leather, waxed lace, wool mesh, lurex, sequins and feathers in a dramatic colour palette that comprised black, deep shades of green, purple and red to engender a strong and yet feminine woman. High-heeled laced-up leather boots, black elbow-length gloves and sharp tailoring also evidenced this confidence, with double buttoned fit blazers and tight trousers that widened slightly at the hem line. The physical shape of the crow and its spread wings in dynamic flight influenced the asymmetrical hems and coat fastenings, the volumes in the hip area, and the décolletage designs in what proved to be one of the strongest collections shown during the 34th edition of São Paulo Fashion Week.