Enveloping the DDP, a new 30,000 square-metre park was added as a new place for leisure and relaxation within the busy urban fabric of the Dongdaemun district. The park’s layout and design reinterprets the spatial concepts of traditional Korean garden design, namely layering, horizontality, and a blurring of the spatial concepts of interior and exterior.

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Designer Woo Young Mi adopted Paris as her sartorial home and the location for her eponymous label after showing a collection there in 2002, and following a successful career in Seoul developed initially on her own and later in collaboration with her sister Woo Jang Hee. In just over a decade, Wooyoungmi garnered a series of important accolades within the international fashion industry, including being made a full member of the French fashion association La Chambre Syndicale in 2011, and developing a network of 46 prestigious retailers that sell their creations in 17 countries spread across the globe.

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Visitors can access the centre from a large plaza leading to two entrances that cut the geometric facade along a diagonal axis. On entering the building, a sculptural pleated interior leads people through the atrium into the main foyer. In addition to a theatre that will provide a regular schedule of activities, the centre also features a restaurant, a media lab, a lecture theatre and an art gallery.

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Designed by Ka-yoon Kim and Yoo-sung Na, Cy Choi’s latest collection uses a minimal black and white palette as a way to interpret duality and to focus on rich designs that play with contrasting proportions and volumetric shapes. Highlights of the collection include boxy coats, wide palazzo pants (often styled by being tucked into boots), tight pants with leather applications, bomber jackets, casual padded jackets, formal black overcoats with asymmetric buttoning, satin and fur covered coat lapels, double-breasted overcoats, and biker jackets in cropped versions or elongated as overcoats.

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To display his collection for Spring/Summer 2013 as part of London Fashion Week’s official calendar, Choi opted for an intimate salon show. With the title ‘Space Oddity’, the range of garments combined influences from science fiction and films, namely Stanley Kubrick’s ‘2001: A Space Odyssey’ (1968) and Michelangelo Antonioni’s ‘Blow Up’ (1966), and investigated the romantic take on futurism as engendered by 1960s popular cultural interpretations of what the twenty-first century would look like.

Minimalist and clean lines were emphasised by full silhouettes while including signature contrasting fabric blocks of textures and colours. In addition, iridescent culottes with a sporty feel contrasted with elegant patent leather raincoats updated with dimpled lurex and exaggerated box cut tees adorned with bold geometric beading. Neoprene skirts featured in a variety of colour comonations, and a knee-length white patent leather dress was chequered to the waist with florescent orange disks. White was a prevalent hue in garments such as a cocoon coat and a dress in a textured three-dimensional mesh, and cobalt blue could be seen in cigarette trousers and in the trims of wrap skirts and dresses. A range of Perspex heeled shoes designed in collaboration with Joanne Stoker added a sci-fi feel to the collection.

For The Style Examiner, this was one of the strongest collections shown during the inaugural day of London Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2013. Ultimately, there was nothing of the oddity about the collection. In fact, a small and wondrous odyssey was witnessed and lauded by those present.

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Once again, Cy Choi works contrasting elements into the collection in an accomplished and elegant manner: delicate wool knits and cotton shirts are layered under coats made of thick wool and shearling, plain colours coexist with striking patterns such as hound’s-tooth and dots, and the colour palette fuses dark tones (such as black, navy, grey, and green) with lighter ones (namely ivory and cream. The slim and fitted shapes of trousers and shirts also contrast with strong outerwear, particularly against a plethora of single and double breasted coats that come in a variety of options, including field coats, pea coats, trench coats, fitted coats, and oversized coats. Details such as concealed buttons, shawl collars, patch pockets, knee patches on trousers, adjustable drawstring waistbands on coats, and raglan sleeves also illustrate a sartorial narrative that successfully blends opposing designs and inspirations.

Chul Yong studied Fine Art and Fashion Design at the Hongik University in Seoul, Korea, before enrolling in Fashion Design at Domus Academy in Milan, Italy. After graduating, he lived in Milan and worked as a fashion designer and art director for brands in Italy and Korea. Since his first menswear collection for Spring/Summer 2010 came to the fore, he has caught the attention of a number of publications and saw his designs featured in several blogs and magazines such as GQ, Arena, Esquire, and L’Officiel Hommes.

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As the designers wanted to explore how their male consumer would embrace varied influences and wear them in a modern and elegant way, the collection takes inspiration from not one particular culture but from worldwide crafts, prints and patterns. As such, detailed and colourful patterns that reference both Africa and Latin America are purposely slightly unrefined and worn boldly on overcoats, suits, trousers and shirts. A cloud print, scattered across lightweight coats, has its roots in Asia whereas the floral print unearthed in a Parisian flea-market is traced back to African beginnings. To bring the diversity of global cultures together, the colour palette is restrained and elegant, including navy, light blue, pale salmon, mustard, black, white, greens, and browns. Likewise, the overall long and sharp silhouette hints at classic 1960s styles by using slim-cut trousers and cropped or collarless jackets.

Woo Youngmi started to shine in the world of fashion when she won the Osaka International Fashion award upon completing her studies in Fashion from Sung-kyun-kwan University in Seoul. She went on to become the first Korean female designer of menswear when she launched the brand Solid Homme from a small boutique in Seoul in 1988. In 1989, she was joined by her younger sister Woo Janghee at the design helm of her collections, and in 1993 (together with fellow Korean designers) Woo Youngmi founded ‘New Wave’, a platform for young designers to show their work that developed into what is now Seoul Fashion Week. In 2002, Wooyoungmi was launched as a global brand and showed for the first time during Paris Menswear Fashion Week, where it has been a regular participant ever since. Today, Wooyoungmi can be found in retailers in Australia, Canada, China,France, Greece, Hong Kong, Italy, Japan, Korea, Russia, Singapore, Thailand, UK, Ukraine, and USA.

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