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Massimo was always drawn to the technology and functionality involved in the production of fabrics and the actual military garments. However, when he experimented with such fabrics and designs for C.P. Company, he realised that the garments that he created did not fit in with the brand’s vision. To address this, he created Stone Island to market these designs. Today, Stone Island’s garments vary between innovative jackets to functional and fashion forward Stone Island jeans and everyday wear garments.

Now in its tenth generation, Stone Island’s Shadow Project is the result of an ongoing collaboration between the owner and creative director Carlo Rivetti and designers Michaela Sachenbacher and Errolson Hugh, also known as ACRONYM. The project has roots in experimentation and in the fusion between technical functionality and the performance of form. The latest incarnation of the Shadow Project has been foregrounded by a video found here.

For Autumn/Winter 2012, the Shadow Project collection used empty urban locations and pieces falling slowly from the ceiling to distil the concept of interplay between form and function. The Spring/Summer 2013 collection, which is just now upon us, features a very exciting garment that glows in the dark. Not one to shy away from experimentation, Stone Island has called this ‘the luminescence technique’. The fabric is wind and water resistant, and also has the ability to capture light and emit it back when it is dark. This technology has been applied to twelve different garments, either in parts (such as the hood or a zip) or to the whole item.

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Despite the display of the somehow subversive anti-fashion phrase ‘Boys will be boys’ on garments and accessories, Zhou’s collection could have not shown more maturity and proficient command of sartorial languages. It featured elongated silhouettes and garments that reinterpreted sportswear and military jackets for the modern and fashion-conscious man, with added layers of luxurious fabric cleverly draped over shoulders and onto sleeves that could be zipped up into hoodies.

In addition to conventional suits, bomber jackets and sweatshirts, the collection, entitled ‘Homies’ revealed very sculpted and ingenious shapes. The playful possibilities of reshaping the male silhouette in a seemingly casual approach was centred around the shoulder lines with on and off-shoulder coats, trenches and jumpers that, in their evocation of women’s stoles and sleeveless dresses, questioned the gender rules in fashion in a very elegant manner.

Furthermore, the exploration of bulbous proportions suggested that the work of Cristobal Balenciaga or Christian Dior had been appropriately learnt and mastered. Such influences could be seen in the fine balance of the body line between waist and shoulders, as well as in the quilting and folding techniques and in the colour palette that comprised greys and blacks highlighted by elegant shades of sky blue, red, and camel.

Xander Zhou studied industrial design in China and fashion design in The Netherlands before launching his label in Beijing in 2007. He became the first Chinese menswear designer to exhibit his work outside his country when he showed his Spring/Summer 2013 designs during London Collections: Men in June 2012.

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Bedroom Athletics, founded in 2007 with the intention to offer leisurewear and sleepwear for women, has grown to become available in over 20 countries. Since it started, it has also developed a footwear collection for both men and women and has recently launched a range of boxer shorts for men.

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Meanwhile, London’s Design Museum has collaborated with Mary Katrantzou on a similar concept. The Design Museum tree (a three-meter tall, two-dimensional design on the museum’s outer wall) incorporates patterns from Katrantzou’s Autumn/Winter 2012 collection and is embellished with embroideries by Swarovski and Lesage.

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Kris Van Assche was born in Belgium in 1976. Having worked for Yves Saint Laurent, then Dior Homme, he started his own label KRISVANASSCHE in January 2005. He has also been the Artistic Director for Dior Homme since April 2007.

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The Super Spy is known for its sleek silhouette: jackets are low-cut, single-breasted, two-buttoned, and feature peak lapels in black luxe sateen, whereas skinny-fit trousers have a buckle and side strap adjusters, razor-sharp creases and a ‘secret pocket’.

The Bank Robber represents the city professional: double-breasted jackets come with peak lapels and four buttons, and trousers are slim. This look comes in Alfred Brown and Grey Pinstripe, and Alfred Brown and Navy Herringbone.

The San Franciscan includes a single-breasted three-button jacket made from heavy unlined wool with fully bound colour inner seams, swelled edge peak lapels, black quilted shoulder patches and stitched edge patch pockets with button-down flaps. It comes in Orbey Black and White Tweed, Orbey Blue Dogtooth, Orbey Grey Herringbone and Orbey Green Herringbone.

The laid-back Country Rebel comprises a relaxed single-breasted five-button jacket with swelled edge peak lapels, three on-the-turn buttons, and patch pockets edge-stitched with feature flaps. This range comes in Orbey Green Tweed and Orbey Dark Grey Herringbone.

The Style Examiner paid a visit to the Superdry flagship store in London and we admit that, despite the whimsical identity of each range based on generic representations of men, we could not but feel impressed with the quality of the fabrics and attention to detail. The Superdry +Timothy Everest partnership certainly deserves to continue as a successful collaboration that will warrant our interest to investigate further.

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